News

Drone Registration Deadline Ends Today

If you haven’t Registered your Drone weighing 250 grams and over by now, you will have until midnight EST, January 21st, 2016 and your $5 registration fee will be refunded!

To register, simply go to FAA.gov website by Clicking Here. Then on that page scroll down and click the blue Register Now button.

If you wait until after mid-night, the $5.00 registration fee will not be refunded. Failing to register your Drones at all, that could cost you $25,00 and/or imprisonment for up to three years.

So dont be a dummy….. REGISTER YOUR DRONES NOW!

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Blog

The Tragic Story of Sky Spider

I thought I would share a story about my first drone I had ever built. I have been in the hobby for a long while at that time, and had many drones that I have bought.

I had been thinking of building my own drone for a while just so I can say I built it, while learning a little more about the hobby in the process. I had been saving up for a while because I wanted all top of the line parts. From the props to the frame; everything had to be quality.

Several months later, at the end of the 2014 year, I took all the money I got from Christmas and added it to my “Drone Jar” (Prepaid Amex Bluebird card); and with that money I was able to afford to start the ordering process for the parts to start the build.

When all my parts arrived, I was in awe. I was so very happy. I fell in love with the DX7 transmitter instantly. You have to remember that up to that time, I only used the transmitter that came with my drones.

I was like a kid in a candy store with all these parts sitting on my desk. I was very happy, but nervous at the same time. I was nervous because I was thinking that I was getting way in over my head. With all the parts now in front of me instead of on a computer monitor, it looks way too complicated.

I dove head first and slammed everything together and set up my 3DR APM and GPS (not the clones), and stuck on my Mobius action camera. When I first started it up for the first time, it kept flipping over and over which scared me to death (yes, I’m a zombie).

After researching (thank god for YouTube) for a minute, I figured out that two of the motors were rotating incorrectly, so I DE-soldered the Motor wires from the ESC and switched two of the wires around; then walked outside to try again.

I was super nervous. I slowly gave the drone some throttle and up it went. Success! I had successfully built my first drone. After a few figure 8 laps, I wanted to learn more about the inner workings of the drone and what I could and could not do with the APM flight controller.

For months, and even up until that tragic day I read and tuned on that drone. I had it almost perfect for me. After many fight hours, I decided on a name (it’s something I do) and that name was Sky Spider.

Later on that month I decided I wanted a gimbal and a good camera for Sky Spider. After Researching what was the best gimbal and camera I saved up for the Gimbal and GoPro.

After I received the GoPro and Gimbal, I mounted them on Sky Spider and took off on a short autonomous mission to test everything out, and I was like WOW when I replayed to footage.

That night I decided I wanted FPV on it, and with what little money I had left in my “Drone Jar”, I bought an eBay FPV kit. Yes, it was cheap, but I would eventually replace it with something good. I just needed more time to save up the money.

The next evening, I took Sky Spider and started to uploaded a mission via MAVLink. But the mission that I had saved somehow was deleted. No biggie as it wasn’t too difficult to redo. When I had my mission laid out in mission planner, I uploaded it to Sky Spider and took him out to my landing pad. With a flip of the switch, Sky Spider lifted up off the ground and started on its 23 waypoint mission.

As I was setting there watching him fly through the air, it was high above the trees, and as it made it turn far away from me, starting back up hill something didn’t look right. But I let it go a little further (my regretful mistake) … And as soon as I seen it was going to hit the top of a tree, and before I could flip the RTL switch to make it go up to 400ft and Return to me, it hit the very top of a 100ft + pine tree.

In a panic I turned off the auto pilot and pulled the throttle to zero, when I should have given it full throttle to try and come out the top or made it fall down to the ground on the other side.

My heart sunk to my stomach. I knew this was bad, very bad. I tried rocking it out of the tree using the throttle without success.  Sky Spider was wedged in tight in the fork of the tree and was hung up on the gimbal and GoPro.

I walked back to the house wondering what in the hell I was going to do now because it was supposed to rain the next day, and what in the hell happen because I flew nearly the same path route many times prior

I Looked over the what I could have possibly done wrong. I looked over and over on mission planner when I spotted what I didn’t do, and I’m pretty sure was the reason for sky spider hitting the top of the tree. I forgot to check on Height Verify in mission planner.

When sky spider lifted off, it lifted off from the landing pad, it was plenty high enough to clear the trees. But the landing pad is downhill in my backyard at the edge of a field. When Sky Spider made it’s turned and started up hill, the distance between him and the ground became closer until eventually he hit the tree.

At dusk that same evening I opened my front door and you could hear Sky Spider crying for help, BEEP—- BEEP—- BEEP—- BEEP—-. There was nothing I could do to help him. I would walk to the windows and watch the landing lights get dimmer and dimmer, and his cries became fainter until finally Sky Spider was dead.

Till this day Sky spider sits at the top of this pine tree, and even now about every 3 days I walk out there hoping it has fell to the ground or to a lower branch but it’s still it the same spot even after 20, 30 and 60mph winds.

I know it is ruined, but I still want it back.

Yes, I have called a tree service but they told me that they couldn’t risk a man falling out of a 100+ ft. tall pine tree trying to rescue a “toy”. They tried to get me to pay to have the tree took down and they would send a man up to retrieve it for me

Two days later my eBay FPV kit arrived.

One day I hope I can have Sky Spider back in my hands. I will replace all the parts, install the eBay FPV kit and raise Sky Spider back from the dead. And i will do a Resurrection Of Sky Spider blog series. That day will be a glorious day for me.

 

Drones

Best RC Consumer and Commercial Drones with a Camera for Aerial Photography

* Disclaimer –  This Article contains Amazon Associate Product Links*

I’m very much aware that most people dont have to time, patience or even lack skill to build their own RC Drone for Aerial Photography and would much rather buy a Drone that is already completed, tuned and Ready To Fly (RTF). But with so many choices on the market, it can leave you (the consumer) head spinning like Linda Blair from the The Exorcist.

Well grab a hold of your head because it no longer needs to spin out-of-control, because i’m here to help by giving you a list of the Best RC Consumer or Commercial Drones that is already on the market for Aerial Photography.

Whether you’re a serious about aerial photography and use your drones for commercial purposes, or just a regular Joe looking for a new hobby, i’m here to help you make that choice.

Best Consumer RC Drones for Aerial Photography & Play

This List is in NO Particular order.

#1 | UDI 818A HD+ RC Quadcopter Drone with HD Camera, Return Home Function and Headless Mode

UDI

This Latest Quadcopter from UDI is perfect for those beginner and professional RC pilots. This Quadcopter features a Return Home Function — Which means, if you ever get into trouble, with a flip of a switch the UDI will come back to it’s home position and land. It also comes with a 2MP HD video camera.

To find out more information, or to Purchase the UDI 818A HD+ Drone on Amazon, you can do so by Checking the Price on Amazon

#2 | Cheerwing Syma X5SW FPV RC Drone with Camrea

syma

The Syma X5SW is another great customer level drone. This drone features a 2MP HD Wifi Camera, and Headless/IOC function. By using Headless/IOC, the forward direction has nothing to do with nose direction. This lessens the steepness of the learning curve and allows the pilot to enjoy flight while slowly learning each specific orientation of the quadcopter.

To find out more information, or to Purchase the Cheerwing Syma X5SW FPV RC Drone on Amazon, you can do so by Checking the Price on Amazon

#3 | DJI Phantom 3 Standard Quadcopter Drone with 2.7K HD Video Camera

djistand

An excellent drone for a beginner to professional pilot. The DJI drones are highly popular, and of the highest quality out on the market today. If you are looking for a very good drone for the price. The DJI Phanton 3 Standard features a 2.7K video video camera and a 3-axis  gimbal stabilization that will deliver smooth videos and clear photos. It also features a Built-in GPS to allow you send your drone to a point of Interest. It as features a Follow Me and Waypoints modes so you can focus more on getting that shot.

To find out more information, or to Purchase the DJI Phantom 3 Standard Quadcopter on Amazon, you can do so by Checking the Price on Amazon

 #4 | Landvo JJRC H8D FPV RC Drone with HD Camera Bundle with FPV Monitor, Adapter and Accessories

jrc.jpg

The JJRC H8D  is equipped with a professional level of aerial 5.8GHz high-definition camera. This Quadcopter is great for Novice and Professionals alike. This drone is Truly a multi-purpose machine, indoor and outdoor flying.

To find out more information, or to Purchase the Landvo JJRC H8D FPV RC Drone on Amazon, you can do so by Checking the Price on Amazon

 #5 | Hero RC XQ-5 V626 UFO RC Drone with Camera

hero

Hey mom look, a UFO! This drone will make night flying very entertaining. The Hero RC XQ-7 V626 features a Built-in 6 axis GYRO System and Headless Mode. The camera on-board is not that great, but it can be replaced with a Mobius Action Camrea. This drone also comes with a high capacity battery for longer fun time!

To find out more information, or to Purchase the Hero RC XQ-5 V626 UFO RC Drone on Amazon, you can do so by Checking the Price on Amazon

 

Best Commercial RC Drones for Aerial Photography & Play

This List is in NO Particular order.

#1 | DJI Inspire 1 PRO Black Edition Bundle with Zemuse X5 4K Camera

71Np0ZBT9-L._SL1000_

If you’re looking for a professional drone that produces amazing video and photo areal photography, the  DJI Inspire 1 is the drone you are wanting for. This Package comes with everything pictured above, and features 4k  camera and 3-axis Zenmuse X5 stabilization gimbal which guarantees the must steadiest shots. It also provides Live, wireless HD video transmission via DJI Lightbridge

To find out more information, or to Purchase the DJI Inspire 1 PRO Black Edition Bundle on Amazon, you can do so by Checking the Price on Amazon

 #2 | Walkera Voyager 3 Professional GPS and Glonass dual-navigations System FPV Drones

walker

Here is another great Professional drone for aerial photography and commercial use.  This drone features a Professional HD 1080P camera. One key take off/One key to land/One key to return to base. GPS and GLONASS dual- navigation system, and it comes with the DEVO F12E Radio.

To find out more information, or to Purchase the Walker Voyager 3 Professional Drone on Amazon, you can do so by Checking the Price on Amazon

 #3 | DJI Phantom 3 4K Drone + DJI Phantom Backpack (Original) + Parallel

512H8Gu9ajL

Here is another DJI drone, but instead of it being the standard version like seen in the Customer grade drone list, this is the professional version that features a 4k UHD camera. It comes with a fully stabilized 3-axis gimbal and Vision Positioning system that allows stable flight indoors. It also features Lightbridge digital streaming allows live viewing of 720p video.

To find out more information, or to Purchase the DJI Phantom 3 4K Drone on Amazon, you can do so by Checking the Price on Amazon

 #4 | Q500 Typhoon Quadcopter with 1080P 60FPS HD Video Camera

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Voted Drone of the Year, the is an excellent drone for the money. It features a 16 Megapixel Full HD 1080p 60FPS camera and a “Follow Me” autonomous feature where the drone will follow the pilot. You will also get a A real-time feed from your Q500+’s camera and it is displayed on the 5.5″ touchsreen.

To find out more information, or to Purchase the Q500 Typhoon Quadcopter on Amazon, you can do so by Checking the Price on Amazon

#5 | Walkera Scout X4 Ready to Fly FPV RC Quadcopter with Ground Station, 3 Axis Brushless Gimbal, iLook+ Action Camera and Devo F12E 2.4Ghz Transmitter

41eSSlpZDoL.jpg

Here is another drone that is a excellent professional drone for aerial photography. The Walkera Scout X4 features a3 Axis Brushless Gimbal, iLook+ Action Camera and Devo F12E 2.4Ghz Transmitter radio. It also features autonomous Waypoint Mission Planning, Follow Me Mode, Follow Recorded Track Back Home and Real Time Telemetry Monitoring with Compatible Tablet or Mobile Phone.

To find out more information, or to Purchase the Walkera Scout X4 on Amazon, you can do so by Checking the Price on Amazon

 

Instructions, Tutorials

Build Your Own Drone

* Disclaimer –  This Article contains Amazon Associate Product Links*

A Few years ago I got into the hobby. I bought my first Drone for under $100; It was the UDI U818A Quadcopter. I learnt myself how to fly, and put the UDI Quadcopter through living hell in the process of learning to fly.

After many months of crashing, I finally got the hang of it and was pulling off bank turns to perfection. However, after a while, I was wanting more, and like many of you, i was looking to build my own Drone, but was scared to just jump in feet first.

None of the videos and tutorials on how to Build Your Own Drone was clear and confusing at that time. Eventually after a couple of months of research I made the jump and purchased all the parts through Amazon.

Before purchasing the parts to Build Your Own Drone, you have to know what type of drone you want to build… Will your drone be used specifically for aerial photography? Autonomous Drone Fun, or do you want to build a Low and Fast FPV Quadcopter for racing?

Knowing what you’re want to build will help you get together a list of parts that you need, and help you keep from wasting money on parts you do not need.

Before putting together your buy list, you need to rank your skill level. Ranking your skill level will help you determine the amount of money you should invest in your drone.

Trust me when I say this, if you’re not very good at flying a drone you don’t need to throwing a lot of money into it. NEVER spend more money than you can afford to lose just in case the worst case scenario happens. Accidents will occur no matter what your skill level is whether is hardware failure or pilot error.

Be honest with yourself and rank yourself accordingly…

Beginner Pilot:
Buy a pre-made drone like the UDI U818A Quadcopter and learn yourself to fly before moving on. If you’re hell bent on building your own Drone, I recommend that you spend less than $150 (Excluding Required Items).

Novice Pilot:
You have some experience and still getting used to. Accidents are happening less frequently. I recommend that you spend less than $310 (Excluding Required Items).

Intermediate Pilot:
You are getting there. Accidents are few and far in between, but still occur more than they should. You are good at Bank turns, Hovering and Figure 8 flying. I recommend spending less than $500 (Excluding Required Items).

Professional Pilot:
You are a master of the drone. You have mastered Line of Sight Flying. You have mastered Bank turns, Hovering and Figure 8 flying. You can fly either high and fast, or low and fast. Accidents only happens when there is hardware/software failure. You haven’t broken a prop in months! You have total control over the drone! I recommend whatever your budget allows.

For the sake of sanity, in this tutorial I will show you a part list and items list that I put together for Novice Pilots wanting to build an Autonomous Drone. Whether you chose to buy the parts and items listed is up to you.

Tools you will need.

Autonomous F450 Drone Build Part List

Optional (not required).

Required Items (if you dont already own them)

After you have everything ordered, it’s time to Build Your Own Drone.


 

Step 1: Take out the Neewer PCB board and begin pre-soldering all the pads. Make sure to put a generous amount of solder on the main power connection pads.

F450

Step 2: Cut the bullet connectors off the motors (if yours came with them) using wire cutters, the exacto knife or some scissors.

Step 3: Take an ESC, and where the 3 wires are coming out, carefully using the exacto knife cut the heat shrink on both side edges; Than pull the top flap of the heat shrink away exposing the 3 solder points. Fix the flap using the scotch tape to the ESC.

ESC

Step 4: Strip and Tin the end of the motor wires.

Step 5: Take a piece of heat shrink tubing that can fit over the end of the ESC to hold the flap down and slide it over the 3 motor wires. Take the 3 wires on the ESC and de-solder them from the ESC itself.

Step 6: Solder on the motor wires to the solder joints that is directly across from the ESC wires that you just un-soldered from the ESC. Repeat steps 5 and step 6 until you have completed all motors and ESC’s. DO NOT HEAT UP THE HEAT SHRINK TUBING IN THESE STEPS.

Step 7: Once you have all the motor wires soldered to the ESC’s, take the motors and mount them on the Neewer arms using the supplied hex screws. Take the Thread locker and put a dab of it on the end of the hex screws to keep them from vibrating out.

Step 8: Take the ESC’s and lay them on the backside of the Neewer arms and fix them to the Neewer arms using a zip tie or two. Repeat Step 7 and Step 8 until all the motors and ESC’s have been mounted to the Neewer arms.

Step 9: Take the Bottom PCB plate that you pre-soldered in step one and mount the Neewer arms to the PCB plate with the supplied hex screws like in the above Picture and loosely put the hex screws in finger tight. Make sure you mount the PCB plate with the solder points up.

Step 10: Once you have all the Neewer arms mounted to the PCB plate, lets begin soldering the ESC’s to the appropriate pads…

Untitled-3

Take the Hot (red wire) and Ground (black wire) from the ESC and solder them to the ESC pads. You may, or may not have to shorten and strip the ends of those wire. Once you have all the ESC soldered to the PCB board, move onto step 11.

Step 11: Take one of the XT60 Male w/ 12AWG Silicon Wires and solder it on to the Main Power pads.

Step 12: In this step, i want you to inspect all your soldering and make sure none of the solder is touching any of the other pads. If you hook the power up, they will short out your ESC’s and ruin everything else. If you find something, take your Desoldering Pump and break the connection. When everything looks good move on to Step 13.

Step 13: Take the Top Plate and use the supplied the hex screws. Also Use a dab of thread locker on the end of the screws to keep them from backing out with vibrations overtime. Don’t put any thread locker on the side of the the arms (say 1, 9, 10 and 2 hex screws), because you will be removing them once you get ready to mount your GPS. Once you have all the hex screws finger tight. Start tightening down the hex screws with the hex key tool in this order…

top

Step 14: Turn the frame over and take out one hex screw (one at a time) and put a dab of thread locker on the hex screw and finger tighten it back down. Do this to all the bottom hex screws and tighten down them all in this order….

bottom.png

Mounting the APM, GPS, Receiver Battery, Radio Telemetry

There is many different ways to mount your APM, GPS, Receiver, Battery, Radio Telemetry and any other hardware you may have. You can choose about anywhere, but these are the ways i choose to mount them.

Step 15: Before assembling your Anti-vibration Damping Plate, Take the bottom plate and place it on the top plate of the Neewer frame and try to center it the best way you can. Take a White Sharpie, or a Silver Metallic Sharpie and mark the hole onto the top plate of the Neewer frame like in the picture below.

Untitled-2

Then take the appropriate sized drill bit and drill out the holes you just marked on the top plate of the Neewer frame.

Step 16:  Take 4 Nylon standoff and screw them into the hole, then assemble your Anti-vibration Damping Plate.

Step 17: This is the hard part. Take 4 Nylon screws and screw down the assembled Anti-vibration Damping Plate to the Nylon Standoffs. The screw just need to be finger tight, so you dont need a tool for this. For some people it is easier to screw down the bottom of the Anti-vibration Damping Plate first, then assemble it. Whatever works best for you.

Step 18:  Download the Mission Planer Software and install it (don’t run it after install). Take and mount the APM, GPS and Receiver to a piece of cardboard. If you haven’t already bound you Receiver to your transmitter, do it now. If you don’t now how, refer to your receive/transmitter owners manual. If you bought the Turnigy TGY-i6, please watch this video.

After you have bound your receiver, lets move on to how to set up your APM. Plug in your APM via USB cable to your computer and let it install the drivers. When that’s finished start Mission Planner and watch this video..

Step 19: Once you have setup your APM, remove all the components from the cardboard. Take the Double Sided sticky tape that came with the Anti-vibration Damping Plate, and stick it on the Anti-vibration Damping Plate.

Step 20: Take your APM and mount it to the Anti-vibration Damping Plate. Make sure that the FORWARD → is pointing in the direction that you want to be the front of the drone.

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Step 21: Take you receiver and take some Velcro and cut it to shape and stick it to the back of the receiver. Take your Male to Male JR Plug Servo Extension Lead wire and plug them in to channel 1,2,3 and 4.

Step 22: Take your silver or white sharpie and the Channel 1 Servo Extension Lead wire, and on the end that is not connected to anything write 1 on the black connector. Now take Channel 2 Servo Extension Lead wire and write 2 on that black connector. Do this for the other two but write 3 and 4 on those..

Step 23: Take the receiver and mount it somewhere under the the top plate of the Neewer Frame. I Like to mount it near the back so i can run my antenna wires up through the slits of the top plate.

Step 24: Take the Servo Extension Lead wires and run them up through the top plate either through the openings of the top plate or drill a hole large enough so the wires can fit through.

Step 25: Take all the servo wires and connect them to the INPUT side of the APM board; and make sure that the white wire of the servo wire is the closest wire to the channel number on the APM.

If your servo wires isn’t long enough, you can take another servo wire and cut one end off the first servo wire and the one end off the second servo wire, than strip the ends. Slide over a piece of Heat shrink over each individual strain of wire, twist the ends together, solder.

If you have too much slack, take all the servo wires in your hand and twist them. You can place a piece of heat shrink tubing over the twisted bunch of wires to keep them from un-twisting

Step 26: Take your ESC wire and with your silver or white sharpie, mark on the black connector what number that motor is.. Mark 1 for motor 1, mark 2 for motor 2, mark 3 for motor 3 and mark 4 for motor 4.

MOTORS_QuadX_QuadPlus

Image from the Ardupilot Wiki

Step 27: Take the first ESC Wire and plug it into the Channel 1 side of the OUTPUT side of the APM board. Make sure the signal wire is facing up (nearest to the number 1 on the apm)

Step 28: Take your number 2, 3 and 4 ESC wire and remove two wires. Remove the center positive wire (red) and remove the negitive wire (black/brown). The only wire that should be left in the black connector is the Signal wire (Yellow).

Step 29: Take several pieces of heat shrink tubing and begin putting them over each individual exposed silver/gold pins. Once you have them all done, plug the esc wires into the OUTPUT side of the APM board (Yellow wire up).

Step 30: Remove Jumper 1 (JP1) from the APM board.

POwerRails

Step 31: Assemble your GPS Mount.

Step 32:  Take out the  1, 9, 10 and 2 hex screws (or which ever ones you didn’t put thread lock on). Fold your GPS mount and put the end of the GPS mount over the holes. Your Neewer Frame kit should have came with a little hex screws. Takes those if you have them and replace the screws that you just removed with the longer ones. Don’t forget to put a dab of thread lock on the screws before replacing them.

Step 33: Raise your GPS mount (if you haven’t already) and place the supplied double side tape on the top, than place the GPS on the double sided tape. Make sure the GPS is pointed to the front of your Drone. There should be an arrow. If not the wires should be facing towards back of the drone.

Step 34: Take your GPS wires and connect them to the GPS port, and the I2C port.

Step 35: Take your APM Power module cable and connect it to the power connector that you soldered onto the bottom plate of the Neewer frame, and connect the other wire with the small white connector on it to the PM port on the APM board.

Step 36: Take the Radio Telemetry module and put a piece of Velcro on the back of the module. Place it on the end of the top plate or bottom plate of the Neewer frame and route the wire to the Telcom port.

Step 37: Take the USB part of the Radio Telemetry transmitter(?)  and plug it into your pc or laptop and allow it to install the drivers. Watch video to learn how to set it up.

Step 38: Take the battery and the supplied Velcro straps that came with the Neewer frame and fix it to the bottom plate of the Neewer frame.

Step 39: Take the assembled drone outside without the props on and plug the battery into the APM Power module cable. Lights on the APM should light up and you sound hear a series of beeps coming from the ESCs.

You will see a blue flashing light. When that blue flashing light becomes solid (stops flashing), arm the drone by using your controller by holding the throttle stick down and over to the right until the red light stops flashing. Throttle up and the motors should spin.

Step 40: Put your props on your drone. Make sure you put CCW props on the CCW motors and CW props on the CW motor and go flying!

prop_direction

If your Drone flips over, slowly throttle up and make sure the CCW motors are turning CCW and the props are on correctly. If not note the Directions of the CCW motors and switch around two wires (any two wires) on those motors that are spinning in the wrong direction and try again and your flying!

Now heat shrink the tubing on the ESC’s, and put liquid tape over all the exposed soldering and pads, and that’s it, you have built your own drone. Now just tune your drone in mission planner via MAVLink until you get it just perfect!

Emax Blheli 12A Brushless ESC, ESC, Instructions

Emax Blheli Brushless ESC Programming

* Disclaimer –  This Article contains Amazon Associate Product Links*

These instructions covers the Following Emax Blheli ESC

  • Emax Blheli 6A
  • Emax Blheli 12A
  • Emax Blheli 20A
  • Emax Blheli 25A
  • Emax Blheli 30A
  • Emax Blheli 30A-OPTO
  • Emax Blheli 40A-UBEC
  • Emax Blheli 50A-UBEC
  • Emax Blheli 60A-UBEC
  • Emax Blheli 80A-UBEC

Choose a Section

Emax Blheli ESC Normal Startup Instructions

Move the throttle stick on your Transmitter to the bottom position then switch on your transmitter.

Connect your battery pack to your Emax Blheli ESC. The Long *BEEP* sound should be emitted. That sound means that the bottom point of the throttle range has been detected.

Several *BEEP* tones should be emitted to present the amount of battery cells. When self-test is finished, a musical “♪ 1 2 3” tone should be emitted.

Listen to the Startup Sound

Emax Blheli ESC Throttle Range Setting Procedures

Switch on your transmitter. Move the throttle stick to the most top position on your transmitter.

Connect your battery pack to the Emax Blheli ESC. Two  *BEEP* sounds should be emitted. That sound means that the bottom point of the throttle range has been Confirmed and Saved.

Move the throttle stick to the bottom position (within 2 seconds of the Two  *BEEP* sounds), and long *BEEP* sound should be emitted. The long *BEEP* sound means the bottom point of the throttle range has been detected.

Several *BEEP* tones should be emitted to present the amount of battery cells. When the self-test is finished, a musical “♪ 1 2 3” tone should be emitted.

Note: If the throttle stick is neither at the bottom position nor the top position after powered on, it will constantly make *BEEP* sounds.

Listen to Throttle Range Procedure Sounds

D. Emax Blheli ESC Programming Parameters

D1. Brake Type: There is six break types including..

“BEEP-” (See indicating sounds)

  1. OFF
  2. LOW
  3. MID-LOW
  4. MIDDLE
  5. MID-HIGH
  6. HIGH

The Default is: OFF

D2. Timing Mode: There is five options..

“BEEP-BEEP” (See indicating sounds)

  1. LOW: 0°
  2. MID-LOW: 8°
  3. MIDDLE: 15°
  4. MID-HIGH: 23°
  5. HIGH: 30°

The Default is MIDDLE: 15°. Low advance timing is recommended for high inductance and low KV motors. High advance timing is recommended for low inductance and high KV motors. For some high KV motors, if it shakes while rotating in high speed, the High timing mode is recommended

D3. Start Force: There is thirteen options..

“BEEP-BEEP-BEEP” (See indicating sounds)

  1. 0.03
  2. 0.05
  3. 0.06
  4. 0.09
  5. 0.13
  6. 0.19
  7. 0.25
  8. 0.38
  9. 0.50
  10. 0.75
  11. 1.00
  12. 1.25
  13. 1.50

The Default is 0.75. Select the corresponding start force according to the load of motor.

D4. Reserved for new programming parameters“BEEP-BEEP-BEEP-BEEP” (See indicating sounds)

D5. Control Frequency: There is two options

“BEEP—–” (See indicating sounds)

  1. 8KHz
  2. 22KHz

The Default is 8KHz. This option is the drive frequency of the motors.

D6. Low Voltage Protection: There is four options…

“BEEP—–BEEP-“ (See indicating sounds)

  1. 2.8V/cell
  2. 3.0V/cell
  3. 3.2V/cell
  4. OFF the low voltage protection

The Default is 3.0V/cell. The cell will automatically identify the battery cell. E.g. Suppose there’re 3 cells, if the voltage is lower then 9V, the system will work according to the current cutoff option.

D7. Cutoff Mode: There are two options..

“BEEP—–BEEP-BEEP-” (See indicating sounds)

  1. Soft-Cut
  2. Cut-Off

The Default is Soft-Cut. Soft-Cut  option: Gradually reduce throttle power to 31% of the current power when the voltage is lower than the programmed low-voltage protection threshold. Cut-Off option: immediate motor shutdown occurs in low voltage.

When low-voltage protection, Push the throttle stick to the bottom position  and then top position, the motor will be restarted. But since it is low-voltage condition, the output power is low or stopped at once.

 Exit Program see Exit Program

Tip: If you get your ESC stuck a bidirectional, put your ESC into Programming mode (see Enter Programming mode) and allow the program parameters to cycle through (See indicating sounds). When you hear  “BEEP—-  BEEP- BEEP- BEEP”, pull your throttle stick to the center. When you hear the repeat selection of that parameter setting tones, select the second tone “BEEP-BEEP-” by moving the throttle stick to the top.

E. Emax Blheli ESC Protection Setting

E1. Low Voltage Protection:  Whether to shut down the motor immediately or to lower the power when the input voltage drops below the protection threshold depends on the values set as Cutoff Mode.

E2. Loss of Signal Protection: Power will gradually lower to 0 when the signal is lost, and motor stops Motors will resume to the current power when the signal is detected again.

E3. Over-heat Protection: When the temperature of the ESC MOSFETS exceeds 100 Celsius, power will be lowered gradually and will resume when the temperature decreases.

Emax Blheli ESC Programming via Programming Card 

Programming  your Emax Blheli ESC via Programming card like this one is Highly Recommended.

Step 1: Pull the PPM Signal wire out of the receiver, and plug it in the program card jack.

Note: Please pay attention to the direction your plugging the PPM signal wire into the programming card.

Step 2: Connect the Emax Blheli ESC to the battery, after 2 seconds you will hear the musical “♪ 1 2 3” tone.

Step 3: The Programming card automatically reads the parameters from the Emax Blheli ESC and the corresponding LED will be on.

Step 4: Button 1 is for choosing program items. Button 2 is for choosing different parameters for each item. Button 3 is ‘write’ new parameters to the Emax Blheli ESC.

Step 5: Cut off the power.

 Emax Blheli ESC Programming via Transmitter.

 Step 1: Enter Programming mode:

Switch the transmitter on. Pull the throttle stick to the top position. Switch the Emax Blheli ESC on and wait two seconds. You will hear two *BEEP* sounds, which denotes that Max throttle has been confirmed.

Keep the throttle at the most top position  and you will hear this musical “♪ 1 2 3      ♪ 1 2 3” tone. That sound means that you have entered the transmitter programming mode.

Play Sound

 Step 2: Select program parameters:

Keep the throttle stick to the most top position after you hear the tone mention in step 1. There’re 7 parameters that can be set by using your transmitter. You will hear 7 different indicating sounds which correspond to 7 parameters. Pull the throttle stick to the bottom (full off position) within two seconds after you hear the corespondent sound. That will bring to that correspondent parameter setting status

The indicating sounds will repeat as follows. (Linked to:

  1. Brake Type: “BEEP-” (Play Sound)
  2. Timing Mode: “BEEP-BEEP” (Play Sound)
  3. Start Force: “BEEP-BEEP-BEEP” (Play Sound)
  4. Reserved (skip): “BEEP-BEEP-BEEP-BEEP” (Play Sound)
  5. Control Frequency: “BEEP—–” (Play Sound)
  6. Low Voltage Protection: “BEEP—–BEEP-” (Play Sound)
  7. Cutoff Mode: “BEEP—–BEEP-BEEP-” (Play Sound)

 Step 3: Selecting program values:

After entering the parameter setting status, hold the throttle stick on the bottom position, you will be led to the repeat selection of that parameter setting status. Each sound likes 4 short sounds and one long sound (1 long sound = 5 short sounds), and by that analogy. After some sound pull the throttle stick to the top position in 2 seconds, after you hear the musical tone “♪ 3 2 1   ♪ 3 2 1”, which means the correspondent value has been chosen and saved. Hold the throttle stick on the top position, return to the second step and continue programming.

Exit Program

Pull the throttle stick to the bottom position with in two seconds and hold after saving parameters, until you hear the tune, “BEEP—-  BEEP- BEEP- BEEP –  ♪ 1 2 3”. Set throttle to bottom position .

Play Sound

 Restore Emax Blheli ESC  to factor Defaults

To restore the Emax Blheli ESC to the factory default settings, pull the throttle stick to the bottom position within one second after entering the programming mode, then pull the the throttle stick to the Top Position within 2 seconds. You will hear a tune, which means that the  factory settings have been restored. Pull the the bottom position within 2 seconds. Now the ESC is ready with the factory settings.