Drones, Tutorials

Beginner – FPV System Setup Guide

* Disclaimer –  This Article contains Amazon Associate Product Links*

FPV (First Person View) puts you in the pilot seat of your Quadcopter/Drone. You will see what the Quadcopter/Drone sees in real time. For a beginner, this can be confusing. Well i’m here to help you get you started in the world of with this simple FPV Setup Guide.

A complete FPV system will consist these components…

  • Camera
  • Video Transmitter
  • Video Receiver
  • LCD Screen (or) Goggles (or) Smart Phone (or) Tablet
  • X2 Antennasdia

Various vendors today on the internet sells FPV kits with all the components required. However, most all of these kits or made up of cheap components without going through quality control before leaving the manufacture. Those FPV kits are fine if your going to put it them on a quadcopter/drone that was built cheaply to begin with. However, if you have a good amount of money in your quadcopter/drone, you diffidently dont want to use the cheap FPV components on your quadcopter/drone. They last thing you want to happen is your FPV to malfunction in mid-flight while going top speed (which often happens with these cheap kits).

I’m here to help stop you from making the same mistake as so many other before you have made.

FPV Camera Types

The cameras used in FPV are basically the same as those used in security cameras. When Choosing an FPV Camera, the one thing you have to pay attention to is the power requirements for that particular camera.

Select a camera with a wide input voltage range, that way you have some flexibility when wiring your FPV system. I personally like to choose a camera that use a 5-15 V input. This way i can use the main flight battery.

I personally like the JJA-960H 1080P HD Camera from amazon.

Video Transmitter

The FPV Camera is connected to the Video Transmitter. The video transmitter takes the signal from the camera and sends it out trough the antenna. This antenna is what is called the Transmit antenna and is omni-directional.

I personally recommend the Immersion RC 600mw 5.8 GHz A/V Transmitter from amazon.

Video Receiver

The Video Receiver will receive the Video Signal that is transmitted from the Video Transmitter. The Video Receiver will then take the signal that and show it on you monitor.

I personally recommend the Boscam FPV 5.8G 32CH Wireless AV Receiver RC832
from amazon.

Video Transmitter and Video Receiver Antennas.

Choosing the antennas for your Video Transmitter & Receiver is something that most all of the beginner FPV pilots dont think about. They assume that since FPV Transmitter and Receiver comes with a antenna (omni directional linear polarized whip antenna), they don’t need one. They don’t realize that using that antenna cost them.

Most all FPV Transmitter & Receives comes with a Antenna (Like the antenna on your home router), but the antennas they come with will need to be immediately upgraded to a circular polarized antenna (A/K/A Clover Leaf Antenna) before their first FPV flight.

These simple linear antennas that comes with these kits are very horrible.  The high frequency 5.8GHz bounces off everything so easily, it causes multi-path interference. For FPV, you don’t want that. If you are in mid-flight going into a hard bank turn and you loose signal, your expensive quadcopter could end up smashing into a hard object cause your quadcopter to fly-into little pieces because you were momentary flying blind.


As of this writing, they are 4 different types of antennas…

  • Linear Polarized Omni Directional Antenna
  • Linear Polarized Directional Antenna
  • Circular Polarized Omni Directional Antenna
  • Circular Polarized Directional Antenna

What antenna you decided on really boils down to what frequency you are transmitting on, and how far away you want to fly.

If you are a Beginner FPV Pilot, i wouldn’t worry about any of that for the time being and just go with the Circular polarization Antennas. Once you gain experience, you can start experimenting with different antenna combinations that best suites you.

I Recommend any of these Antennas that can be purchased through Amazon..

  1. Crazepony Foxeer 5.8G FPV Antenna Circular Polarized set
  2. Superior FPV 5.8GHz Clover-Leaf Antenna Set Transmitter Receiver RP-SMA Inner Hole

Monitor or Goggles?

This really boils down to personal preference. Some people prefer the googles. Some people prefer to sit down in front of a very nice ground station with a large LCD monitor, and some people prefer a smaller 6-12 inch LCD Monitor, Tablet, Smartphone attached to their radio transmitter. I However prefer the goggles, and i recommend someone that is just starting out in the FPV hobby to choose the Goggles if they have the funds.

I understand that most people can’t plop down $300-$500 on a pair of Fat Shark FPV Goggles, so here is my list from a Small LCD Monitor,  Large LCD monitor, Tablet and Goggles that can be used for FPV that cab be purchased through amazon..

Note: Some FPV Monitors and Goggles have Built-In Video Receivers. If you choose a FPV monitor or googles that has a built in Video Receiver, you wont need to separately purchase a Video Receiver. Also, some if not most monitors need their own separate power source, like a Lipo Battery, or plug-in to the wall. Some Goggles also comes with a Video Transmitter. Make sure that whatever you purchase doesn’t come with a transmitters and built-in video receiver before making those purchases

    1. Fat Shark Predator V2 FPV Headset System
    2. EACHINE EV800D FPV Goggles with DVR 5.8G 40CH 5 Inch 800×480 Diversity Video Headset Build in Battery
    3. Spektrum Teleporter V4 Video Headset


Installing an FPV System on your quadcopter/drone isn’t difficult, and this information i have given you is enough to get your ‘eyes in the sky’. Welcome to the world of FPV

Instructions, Tutorials

Build Your Own Drone

* Disclaimer –  This Article contains Amazon Associate Product Links*

A Few years ago I got into the hobby. I bought my first Drone for under $100; It was the UDI U818A Quadcopter. I learnt myself how to fly, and put the UDI Quadcopter through living hell in the process of learning to fly.

After many months of crashing, I finally got the hang of it and was pulling off bank turns to perfection. However, after a while, I was wanting more, and like many of you, i was looking to build my own Drone, but was scared to just jump in feet first.

None of the videos and tutorials on how to Build Your Own Drone was clear and confusing at that time. Eventually after a couple of months of research I made the jump and purchased all the parts through Amazon.

Before purchasing the parts to Build Your Own Drone, you have to know what type of drone you want to build… Will your drone be used specifically for aerial photography? Autonomous Drone Fun, or do you want to build a Low and Fast FPV Quadcopter for racing?

Knowing what you’re want to build will help you get together a list of parts that you need, and help you keep from wasting money on parts you do not need.

Before putting together your buy list, you need to rank your skill level. Ranking your skill level will help you determine the amount of money you should invest in your drone.

Trust me when I say this, if you’re not very good at flying a drone you don’t need to throwing a lot of money into it. NEVER spend more money than you can afford to lose just in case the worst case scenario happens. Accidents will occur no matter what your skill level is whether is hardware failure or pilot error.

Be honest with yourself and rank yourself accordingly…

Beginner Pilot:
Buy a pre-made drone like the UDI U818A Quadcopter and learn yourself to fly before moving on. If you’re hell bent on building your own Drone, I recommend that you spend less than $150 (Excluding Required Items).

Novice Pilot:
You have some experience and still getting used to. Accidents are happening less frequently. I recommend that you spend less than $310 (Excluding Required Items).

Intermediate Pilot:
You are getting there. Accidents are few and far in between, but still occur more than they should. You are good at Bank turns, Hovering and Figure 8 flying. I recommend spending less than $500 (Excluding Required Items).

Professional Pilot:
You are a master of the drone. You have mastered Line of Sight Flying. You have mastered Bank turns, Hovering and Figure 8 flying. You can fly either high and fast, or low and fast. Accidents only happens when there is hardware/software failure. You haven’t broken a prop in months! You have total control over the drone! I recommend whatever your budget allows.

For the sake of sanity, in this tutorial I will show you a part list and items list that I put together for Novice Pilots wanting to build an Autonomous Drone. Whether you chose to buy the parts and items listed is up to you.

Tools you will need.

Autonomous F450 Drone Build Part List

Optional (not required).

Required Items (if you dont already own them)

After you have everything ordered, it’s time to Build Your Own Drone.


Step 1: Take out the Eztronics PCB board and begin pre-soldering all the pads. Make sure to put a generous amount of solder on the main power connection pads.


Step 2: Cut the bullet connectors off the motors (if yours came with them) using wire cutters, the exacto knife or some scissors.

Step 3: Take an ESC, and where the 3 wires are coming out, carefully using the exacto knife cut the heat shrink on both side edges; Than pull the top flap of the heat shrink away exposing the 3 solder points. Fix the flap using the scotch tape to the ESC.


Step 4: Strip and Tin the end of the motor wires.

Step 5: Take a piece of heat shrink tubing that can fit over the end of the ESC to hold the flap down and slide it over the 3 motor wires. Take the 3 wires on the ESC and de-solder them from the ESC itself.

Step 6: Solder on the motor wires to the solder joints that is directly across from the ESC wires that you just un-soldered from the ESC. Repeat steps 5 and step 6 until you have completed all motors and ESC’s. DO NOT HEAT UP THE HEAT SHRINK TUBING IN THESE STEPS.

Step 7: Once you have all the motor wires soldered to the ESC’s, take the motors and mount them on the Eztronics arms using the supplied hex screws. Take the Thread locker and put a dab of it on the end of the hex screws to keep them from vibrating out.

Step 8: Take the ESC’s and lay them on the backside of the Eztronics arms and fix them to the Eztronics arms using a zip tie or two. Repeat Step 7 and Step 8 until all the motors and ESC’s have been mounted to the Eztronics arms.

Step 9: Take the Bottom PCB plate that you pre-soldered in step one and mount the Eztronics arms to the PCB plate with the supplied hex screws like in the above Picture and loosely put the hex screws in finger tight. Make sure you mount the PCB plate with the solder points up.

Step 10: Once you have all the Eztronics arms mounted to the PCB plate, lets begin soldering the ESC’s to the appropriate pads…


Take the Hot (red wire) and Ground (black wire) from the ESC and solder them to the ESC pads. You may, or may not have to shorten and strip the ends of those wire. Once you have all the ESC soldered to the PCB board, move onto step 11.

Step 11: Take one of the XT60 Male w/ 12AWG Silicon Wires and solder it on to the Main Power pads.

Step 12: In this step, i want you to inspect all your soldering and make sure none of the solder is touching any of the other pads. If you hook the power up, they will short out your ESC’s and ruin everything else. If you find something, take your Desoldering Pump and break the connection. When everything looks good move on to Step 13.

Step 13: Take the Top Plate and use the supplied the hex screws. Also Use a dab of thread locker on the end of the screws to keep them from backing out with vibrations overtime. Don’t put any thread locker on the side of the the arms (say 1, 9, 10 and 2 hex screws), because you will be removing them once you get ready to mount your GPS. Once you have all the hex screws finger tight. Start tightening down the hex screws with the hex key tool in this order…


Step 14: Turn the frame over and take out one hex screw (one at a time) and put a dab of thread locker on the hex screw and finger tighten it back down. Do this to all the bottom hex screws and tighten down them all in this order….


Mounting the APM, GPS, Receiver Battery, Radio Telemetry

There is many different ways to mount your APM, GPS, Receiver, Battery, Radio Telemetry and any other hardware you may have. You can choose about anywhere, but these are the ways i choose to mount them.

Step 15: Before assembling your Anti-vibration Damping Plate, Take the bottom plate and place it on the top plate of the Eztronics frame and try to center it the best way you can. Take a White Sharpie, or a Silver Metallic Sharpie and mark the hole onto the top plate of the Eztronics frame like in the picture below.


Then take the appropriate sized drill bit and drill out the holes you just marked on the top plate of the Eztronics frame.

Step 16:  Take 4 Nylon standoff and screw them into the hole, then assemble your Anti-vibration Damping Plate.

Step 17: This is the hard part. Take 4 Nylon screws and screw down the assembled Anti-vibration Damping Plate to the Nylon Standoffs. The screw just need to be finger tight, so you dont need a tool for this. For some people it is easier to screw down the bottom of the Anti-vibration Damping Plate first, then assemble it. Whatever works best for you.

Step 18:  Download the Mission Planer Software and install it (don’t run it after install). Take and mount the APM, GPS and Receiver to a piece of cardboard. If you haven’t already bound you Receiver to your transmitter, do it now. If you don’t now how, refer to your receive/transmitter owners manual. If you bought the Turnigy TGY-i6, please watch this video.

After you have bound your receiver, lets move on to how to set up your APM. Plug in your APM via USB cable to your computer and let it install the drivers. When that’s finished start Mission Planner and watch this video..

Step 19: Once you have setup your APM, remove all the components from the cardboard. Take the Double Sided sticky tape that came with the Anti-vibration Damping Plate, and stick it on the Anti-vibration Damping Plate.

Step 20: Take your APM and mount it to the Anti-vibration Damping Plate. Make sure that the FORWARD → is pointing in the direction that you want to be the front of the drone.


Step 21: Take you receiver and take some Velcro and cut it to shape and stick it to the back of the receiver. Take your Male to Male JR Plug Servo Extension Lead wire and plug them in to channel 1,2,3 and 4.

Step 22: Take your silver or white sharpie and the Channel 1 Servo Extension Lead wire, and on the end that is not connected to anything write 1 on the black connector. Now take Channel 2 Servo Extension Lead wire and write 2 on that black connector. Do this for the other two but write 3 and 4 on those..

Step 23: Take the receiver and mount it somewhere under the the top plate of the Eztronics Frame. I Like to mount it near the back so i can run my antenna wires up through the slits of the top plate.

Step 24: Take the Servo Extension Lead wires and run them up through the top plate either through the openings of the top plate or drill a hole large enough so the wires can fit through.

Step 25: Take all the servo wires and connect them to the INPUT side of the APM board; and make sure that the white wire of the servo wire is the closest wire to the channel number on the APM.

If your servo wires isn’t long enough, you can take another servo wire and cut one end off the first servo wire and the one end off the second servo wire, than strip the ends. Slide over a piece of Heat shrink over each individual strain of wire, twist the ends together, solder.

If you have too much slack, take all the servo wires in your hand and twist them. You can place a piece of heat shrink tubing over the twisted bunch of wires to keep them from un-twisting

Step 26: Take your ESC wire and with your silver or white sharpie, mark on the black connector what number that motor is.. Mark 1 for motor 1, mark 2 for motor 2, mark 3 for motor 3 and mark 4 for motor 4.


Image from the Ardupilot Wiki

Step 27: Take the first ESC Wire and plug it into the Channel 1 side of the OUTPUT side of the APM board. Make sure the signal wire is facing up (nearest to the number 1 on the apm)

Step 28: Take your number 2, 3 and 4 ESC wire and remove two wires. Remove the center positive wire (red) and remove the negitive wire (black/brown). The only wire that should be left in the black connector is the Signal wire (Yellow).

Step 29: Take several pieces of heat shrink tubing and begin putting them over each individual exposed silver/gold pins. Once you have them all done, plug the esc wires into the OUTPUT side of the APM board (Yellow wire up).

Step 30: Remove Jumper 1 (JP1) from the APM board.


Step 31: Assemble your GPS Mount.

Step 32:  Take out the  1, 9, 10 and 2 hex screws (or which ever ones you didn’t put thread lock on). Fold your GPS mount and put the end of the GPS mount over the holes. Your Eztronics Frame kit should have came with a little hex screws. Takes those if you have them and replace the screws that you just removed with the longer ones. Don’t forget to put a dab of thread lock on the screws before replacing them.

Step 33: Raise your GPS mount (if you haven’t already) and place the supplied double side tape on the top, than place the GPS on the double sided tape. Make sure the GPS is pointed to the front of your Drone. There should be an arrow. If not the wires should be facing towards back of the drone.

Step 34: Take your GPS wires and connect them to the GPS port, and the I2C port.

Step 35: Take your APM Power module cable and connect it to the power connector that you soldered onto the bottom plate of the Eztronics frame, and connect the other wire with the small white connector on it to the PM port on the APM board.

Step 36: Take the Radio Telemetry module and put a piece of Velcro on the back of the module. Place it on the end of the top plate or bottom plate of the Eztronics frame and route the wire to the Telcom port.

Step 37: Take the USB part of the Radio Telemetry transmitter(?)  and plug it into your pc or laptop and allow it to install the drivers. Watch video to learn how to set it up.

Step 38: Take the battery and the supplied Velcro straps that came with the Eztronics frame and fix it to the bottom plate of the Eztronics frame.

Step 39: Take the assembled drone outside without the props on and plug the battery into the APM Power module cable. Lights on the APM should light up and you sound hear a series of beeps coming from the ESCs.

You will see a blue flashing light. When that blue flashing light becomes solid (stops flashing), arm the drone by using your controller by holding the throttle stick down and over to the right until the red light stops flashing. Throttle up and the motors should spin.

Step 40: Put your props on your drone. Make sure you put CCW props on the CCW motors and CW props on the CW motor and go flying!


If your Drone flips over, slowly throttle up and make sure the CCW motors are turning CCW and the props are on correctly. If not note the Directions of the CCW motors and switch around two wires (any two wires) on those motors that are spinning in the wrong direction and try again and your flying!

Now heat shrink the tubing on the ESC’s, and put liquid tape over all the exposed soldering and pads, and that’s it, you have built your own drone. Now just tune your drone in mission planner via MAVLink until you get it just perfect!

Emax Blheli 12A Brushless ESC, ESC, Instructions

Emax Blheli Brushless ESC Programming

* Disclaimer –  This Article contains Amazon Associate Product Links*

These instructions covers the Following Emax Blheli ESC

  • Emax Blheli 6A
  • Emax Blheli 12A
  • Emax Blheli 20A
  • Emax Blheli 25A
  • Emax Blheli 30A
  • Emax Blheli 30A-OPTO
  • Emax Blheli 40A-UBEC
  • Emax Blheli 50A-UBEC
  • Emax Blheli 60A-UBEC
  • Emax Blheli 80A-UBEC

Choose a Section

Emax Blheli ESC Normal Startup Instructions

Move the throttle stick on your Transmitter to the bottom position then switch on your transmitter.

Connect your battery pack to your Emax Blheli ESC. The Long *BEEP* sound should be emitted. That sound means that the bottom point of the throttle range has been detected.

Several *BEEP* tones should be emitted to present the amount of battery cells. When self-test is finished, a musical “♪ 1 2 3” tone should be emitted.

Listen to the Startup Sound

Emax Blheli ESC Throttle Range Setting Procedures

Switch on your transmitter. Move the throttle stick to the most top position on your transmitter.

Connect your battery pack to the Emax Blheli ESC. Two  *BEEP* sounds should be emitted. That sound means that the bottom point of the throttle range has been Confirmed and Saved.

Move the throttle stick to the bottom position (within 2 seconds of the Two  *BEEP* sounds), and long *BEEP* sound should be emitted. The long *BEEP* sound means the bottom point of the throttle range has been detected.

Several *BEEP* tones should be emitted to present the amount of battery cells. When the self-test is finished, a musical “♪ 1 2 3” tone should be emitted.

Note: If the throttle stick is neither at the bottom position nor the top position after powered on, it will constantly make *BEEP* sounds.

Listen to Throttle Range Procedure Sounds

D. Emax Blheli ESC Programming Parameters

D1. Brake Type: There is six break types including..

“BEEP-” (See indicating sounds)

  1. OFF
  2. LOW
  3. MID-LOW
  6. HIGH

The Default is: OFF

D2. Timing Mode: There is five options..

“BEEP-BEEP” (See indicating sounds)

  1. LOW: 0°
  2. MID-LOW: 8°
  3. MIDDLE: 15°
  4. MID-HIGH: 23°
  5. HIGH: 30°

The Default is MIDDLE: 15°. Low advance timing is recommended for high inductance and low KV motors. High advance timing is recommended for low inductance and high KV motors. For some high KV motors, if it shakes while rotating in high speed, the High timing mode is recommended

D3. Start Force: There is thirteen options..

“BEEP-BEEP-BEEP” (See indicating sounds)

  1. 0.03
  2. 0.05
  3. 0.06
  4. 0.09
  5. 0.13
  6. 0.19
  7. 0.25
  8. 0.38
  9. 0.50
  10. 0.75
  11. 1.00
  12. 1.25
  13. 1.50

The Default is 0.75. Select the corresponding start force according to the load of motor.

D4. Reserved for new programming parameters“BEEP-BEEP-BEEP-BEEP” (See indicating sounds)

D5. Control Frequency: There is two options

“BEEP—–” (See indicating sounds)

  1. 8KHz
  2. 22KHz

The Default is 8KHz. This option is the drive frequency of the motors.

D6. Low Voltage Protection: There is four options…

“BEEP—–BEEP-“ (See indicating sounds)

  1. 2.8V/cell
  2. 3.0V/cell
  3. 3.2V/cell
  4. OFF the low voltage protection

The Default is 3.0V/cell. The cell will automatically identify the battery cell. E.g. Suppose there’re 3 cells, if the voltage is lower then 9V, the system will work according to the current cutoff option.

D7. Cutoff Mode: There are two options..

“BEEP—–BEEP-BEEP-” (See indicating sounds)

  1. Soft-Cut
  2. Cut-Off

The Default is Soft-Cut. Soft-Cut  option: Gradually reduce throttle power to 31% of the current power when the voltage is lower than the programmed low-voltage protection threshold. Cut-Off option: immediate motor shutdown occurs in low voltage.

When low-voltage protection, Push the throttle stick to the bottom position  and then top position, the motor will be restarted. But since it is low-voltage condition, the output power is low or stopped at once.

 Exit Program see Exit Program

Tip: If you get your ESC stuck a bidirectional, put your ESC into Programming mode (see Enter Programming mode) and allow the program parameters to cycle through (See indicating sounds). When you hear  “BEEP—-  BEEP- BEEP- BEEP”, pull your throttle stick to the center. When you hear the repeat selection of that parameter setting tones, select the second tone “BEEP-BEEP-” by moving the throttle stick to the top.

E. Emax Blheli ESC Protection Setting

E1. Low Voltage Protection:  Whether to shut down the motor immediately or to lower the power when the input voltage drops below the protection threshold depends on the values set as Cutoff Mode.

E2. Loss of Signal Protection: Power will gradually lower to 0 when the signal is lost, and motor stops Motors will resume to the current power when the signal is detected again.

E3. Over-heat Protection: When the temperature of the ESC MOSFETS exceeds 100 Celsius, power will be lowered gradually and will resume when the temperature decreases.

Emax Blheli ESC Programming via Programming Card 

Programming  your Emax Blheli ESC via Programming card is Highly Recommended.

Step 1: Pull the PPM Signal wire out of the receiver, and plug it in the program card jack.

Note: Please pay attention to the direction your plugging the PPM signal wire into the programming card.

Step 2: Connect the Emax Blheli ESC to the battery, after 2 seconds you will hear the musical “♪ 1 2 3” tone.

Step 3: The Programming card automatically reads the parameters from the Emax Blheli ESC and the corresponding LED will be on.

Step 4: Button 1 is for choosing program items. Button 2 is for choosing different parameters for each item. Button 3 is ‘write’ new parameters to the Emax Blheli ESC.

Step 5: Cut off the power.

 Emax Blheli ESC Programming via Transmitter.

 Step 1: Enter Programming mode:

Switch the transmitter on. Pull the throttle stick to the top position. Switch the Emax Blheli ESC on and wait two seconds. You will hear two *BEEP* sounds, which denotes that Max throttle has been confirmed.

Keep the throttle at the most top position  and you will hear this musical “♪ 1 2 3      ♪ 1 2 3” tone. That sound means that you have entered the transmitter programming mode.

Play Sound

 Step 2: Select program parameters:

Keep the throttle stick to the most top position after you hear the tone mention in step 1. There’re 7 parameters that can be set by using your transmitter. You will hear 7 different indicating sounds which correspond to 7 parameters. Pull the throttle stick to the bottom (full off position) within two seconds after you hear the corespondent sound. That will bring to that correspondent parameter setting status

The indicating sounds will repeat as follows. (Linked to:

  1. Brake Type: “BEEP-” (Play Sound)
  2. Timing Mode: “BEEP-BEEP” (Play Sound)
  3. Start Force: “BEEP-BEEP-BEEP” (Play Sound)
  4. Reserved (skip): “BEEP-BEEP-BEEP-BEEP” (Play Sound)
  5. Control Frequency: “BEEP—–” (Play Sound)
  6. Low Voltage Protection: “BEEP—–BEEP-” (Play Sound)
  7. Cutoff Mode: “BEEP—–BEEP-BEEP-” (Play Sound)

 Step 3: Selecting program values:

After entering the parameter setting status, hold the throttle stick on the bottom position, you will be led to the repeat selection of that parameter setting status. Each sound likes 4 short sounds and one long sound (1 long sound = 5 short sounds), and by that analogy. After some sound pull the throttle stick to the top position in 2 seconds, after you hear the musical tone “♪ 3 2 1   ♪ 3 2 1”, which means the correspondent value has been chosen and saved. Hold the throttle stick on the top position, return to the second step and continue programming.

Exit Program

Pull the throttle stick to the bottom position with in two seconds and hold after saving parameters, until you hear the tune, “BEEP—-  BEEP- BEEP- BEEP –  ♪ 1 2 3”. Set throttle to bottom position .

Play Sound

 Restore Emax Blheli ESC  to factor Defaults

To restore the Emax Blheli ESC to the factory default settings, pull the throttle stick to the bottom position within one second after entering the programming mode, then pull the the throttle stick to the Top Position within 2 seconds. You will hear a tune, which means that the  factory settings have been restored. Pull the the bottom position within 2 seconds. Now the ESC is ready with the factory settings.